The
drive begins with the fast main highway as far as
Mae Malai (KM.36). Unless you visit the Mae Sa Valley
(recommended if renting for one day only), or go on
a slower alternative route, the interesting part of
the journey really begins once you leave Mae Malai
on the highway to Pai.
From
Mae Malai the road passes lowland villages and orchards,
and you can visit the lovely rural temple of Wat Tha
Kham (KM.10 left turn [south] on sealed road 1.5 kms.)
and the popular Mok Fa waterfall (KM.18.Left turn
[south] 1.5 kms.). After 20 kilometres the first set
of switch-backs takes the route to a height of about
700 metres and to a series of upland valleys. Lisu
and Hmong hill tribe villages occupy the uplands,
while Karen villages are found lower down.
The
higher hills, which rise to between 1200 and 1400
metres, are often hidden from the road. Dirt roads
link villages all over these hills, but if you wish
to stretch your legs you can take a steep uphill hike
(about 20 minutes) to the Lisu village of Mae Sa from
the forestry station at KM.52 (N.B. You can drive
into Lisu villages easily on day 2.)
The
road reaches a height of 1350 metres between KM 60-70
on the watershed between the River Pai, which drains
into the Gulf of Martaban via the Salween, and the
River Mae Taeng, which drains into the Gulf of Thailand
via the Ping. On this high ground side trip 3 takes
you to the viewpoint at Huai Nam Dang, which is famous
for its view over the Mae Taeng Valley towards Chiang
Dao mountain.
Numerous
switch backs take the road to the floor of the River
Pai valley at KM.85 and the twelve kilometre run to
the town of Pai.
Pai
This
small wooden town (pop. circa 15,000) is mostly Shan,
some of whom are Muslim. The road to the town was
first built by the Japanese in the Second War in their
push to Burma. Pai has long been popular with backpackers
and has plenty of cheap guest houses and restaurants.
Around
Pai
Visiting
the hot springs, taking an elephant ride, or going
on a two hour walk to the Mae Yen Falls are among
the possibilities. A short drive past the hospital
goes to a Haw Chinese (Kuomintang) and a Lisu village,
from where a dirt road leads to Mo Paeng Falls (also
reached by concrete road H1095 KM.101. 5 kms.). A
longer dirt-road drive goes to the Karen village of
Muang Noi (35 kms.), but for anywhere else, you should
get advice and take a guide.
DAY
1: SIDE TRIPS
ST1
The Mae Sa Valley and Samoeng
(From
Key Point 2. KM.17. Left [west turn] 38 kms to Samoeng.
Time: Min 120 min. Allow 4 hours if taking an elephant
ride.)
The
upland valley of the Mae Sa is 700 metres in altitude,
making it a prime location for resorts near Chiang
Mai. The Regent Resort, Chiang Mai, is the best in
Northern Thailand, and the Pong Yaeng Garden Village
has a lovely setting.
Major
attractions include the orchid farms (try the Sainumphung
or Mae Ram Orchid Farms), the Mae Sa Falls, the Queen
Sirikit Botanical Gardens (under development) and
the elephant camps (NB. Elephant rides are also available
in Pai).
The
road passes into the Samoeng Valley at KM.23, from
where there are spectacular views west. Dirt roads
lead to Hmong villages in the hills of the Doi Suthep-Pui
National range that surround the Mae Sa Valley. The
small market town of Samoeng lies in a narrow valley
with pleasing rural scenery.
ST2
Pong Duet Hot Springs
(KM.42.
Right turn [north 4WD] 6 kms. 90 min)
A delightful park offers walks, small pools for bathig
and a sala, where snaks and drinks are sold.
ST3
Huai Nam Dang National Park
(KM.65.
Right turn [north]. Asphalt 6 kms. 60 min.)
A 1600 metre viewpoint best at sunrise in the cold
season.
Overview