The
road passes a succession of valley settlements (Shan
and Karen) separated by low passes, where the forest
closes in to the side of the road. Start early if
you wish to go to the Mae Surin Falls and reach Mae
Sariang in one day.
The
improved road allows for a fast journey that passes
along narrow valleys, bypassing the villages. The
road climbs low hills seldom reaching higher than
500 metres. In the rainy season the jungle will appear
verdant, coming right to the edge of the road, but
as the cold season progresses into the dry (February-March),
the leaves fall and the forested slopes appear more
barren. At the end of the dry season (March-April)
fires burning off the fallen leaf matter become so
numerous that the sky becomes yellow with smoke, sometimes
forcing the temporary closure of Mae Hong Son airport.
The
ranges to the west which flank the River Salween seldom
rise higher than 1300 metres, but dirt roads penetrating
these mountains should be avoided. Security in remote
regions near the Burmese border cannot be guaranteed
due to the large influx of poor Karen refugees. The
mountains to the east average between 1500 and 1800
metres and are best appreciated on ST8 to Meo Microwave.
Khun
Yuam (KM.200)
H108
becomes a high street lined with small shops as it
drops down south through the Shan and Karen town.
The best restaurant (Khrua Pik Mai) is found at the
bottom of the hill. The lovely Shan temple of Wat
To Phae (KM.200. Right turn [west]. Concrete and asphalt
4 kms.) is famous for a Shan style tapestry kept in
a partitioned room to the left of the entrance in
the main vihara.
Mae
Sariang
The
wooden buildings along Laeng Phanit Road that parallels
the Mae Nam Yuam river suggest the town may once have
been a post in an overland link between Chiang Mai
and the Gulf of Martaban. A dirt road from Hot was
first built there in 1954, and was sealed in 1960.
Mae
Sariang use to benefit from the trade with the independent
Karen before the Burmese army successfully drove the
Karen across the border in early 1996. The road to
Mae Sam Laep (46 kms.) on the Salween has been improved
and is the only safe route to the Salween.
DAY
3 SIDE TRIPS
ST8
Meo Microwave
(KM.
235. Left turn [east] through boom gate. Asphalt 10
kms to 1470 m. 90 min.)
The
narrow, steep road climbs high to a Hmong (Meo) village
( 9 kms.) and a microwave station (1 km.). Superb
views, especially if you walk north from the station.
ST9
Mae Surin National Park
(KM.202.
Left turn [east] on H1263.Asphalt approx.10.5 kms.
to left turn [north]. Asphalt 3 kms + graded dirt
approx.17 kms. Half day)
The
first kilometres on H1263 pass by Karen villages.
From the turn off on H1263 it is 6 kms. to the Hmong
village of Ban U-Kho and an area famous for sunflowers
(bua thong ) between October and December. After the
boom gate entrance to the park, turn right then next
left which leads to a car park, from where you walk
to the viewpoint.
From the lovely viewpoint over the south facing falls
a very steep track (90 min.) goes down to the base
of the falls. Birds, gibbons, leeches and a very sweaty
return climb reward visitors.
H1263 provides an alternative route to Mae Chaem (104
kms), but expect some rough patches after Ban Huai
Bong (55 kms.).
ST10
Ban La Up
(KM.131
Left turn [east]. Asphalt 1 km + graded dirt 24 kms.)
The
road gradually climbs to the wealthy Lawa village
of Ban La Up. Much of the population are Christian,
so the cloth weaving and silver beating ceases on
Sundays.
Overview