From
Mae Phim Beach, H3l6l goes to Klaeng, skirting a flat
landscape of villages, prawn farms and mangrove forests
typical of the river estuaries on this coast. The
road passes a park celebrating Thailand's classical
19th century poet, Sunthorn Phu, after 3 kms. A side
road next to the park gives access to the estuary
east of Laem Mae Phim.
From
Klaeng, Highway 3 runs between the estuaries and increasingly
higher mountains that peak at Soi Dao Nua (1605m)
north of the provincial capital of Chantaburi.
Waterfalls
tumble off the high, jungle clad mountains, whose
proximity to the sea has created a rainy climate ideal
for fruit production. Chantaburi is the centre for
the pungent durian fruit, which is celebrated with
a fruit festival in the harvest season at the beginning
of May.
Chantaburi lies close to sapphire and ruby mining regions
and the gem trading area along Si Chan Road. throngs
with traders on Fridays and Saturdays. Nearby deposits
at Bo Rai are largely exhausted, but stones come from
Phailin in Cambodia and elsewhere.
Chantaburi
was dominated by the Khmer from Angkor in the l4th
century, and repeatedly invaded from Cambodia in the
l6th. In 1767 Phraya Taksin occupied the city after
the Burmese destruction of the Siamese capital of
Ayutthaya. From Chantaburi he began the campaign that
forced the Burmese out of Siam and secured the polity
that evolved into modern Thailand.
From
the 18th century Chantaburi provided a haven for Christians
fleeing persecution in Vietnam and later attracted
many overseas Chinese. The Catholic cathedral was
completed in 1909 and" may be reached by foot-bridge
across the river from Rim Nam Street, a charming narrow
street for walking and sampling the city's Chinese-Vietnamese
rice-noodles. Chantaburi's thriving night market is
also within close walking distance.
Noen
Wong fortress was built in 1843 to defend the wealthy
area, but it could not prevent the French from occupying
Chantaburi and Trat in 1893 as part of their colonial
expansion west of the River Mekong in Cambodia and
Laos. The French left in 1907, when Siam finally ceded
Battambang, Siem Reap and Sisophon.
With
the fall of France in 1940, Thai forces retook the
lost provinces, though they suffered a naval defeat
at Ko Chang. In 1947, the provinces were restored
to French Indochina.
The
waterfalls in the national parks are best during weekdays
and at the end of the green season. Reaching the different
levels involves sweaty climbs up sometimes-slippery
paths through lovely moist evergreen jungle. Take
swimming gear to enjoy the cool pools.
DAY
2: SIDE TRIPS
KHAO
CHAMAO - KHAO WONG NATIONAL PARK - ST 4
(H3. KM.275 north turn onto H3377.16 kms.)
The
8 levels of Khao Chamao falls are less impressive
out of the green season, but there is a 2 km. nature
trail. Khao Wong (H3 KM.286 12 kms. north on H3433)
has a succession of small caves inhabited by bats.
Khao Chamao and Khao Wong are linked directly by a
dirt road from Ban Sam Yaek round a reservoir (no
signs).
LAEM
SADET, HAT KUNG WIMAN AND HAT CHAO LAO - ST5
Laem
Sadet, Hat Kung Wiman and Hat Chao Lao. (South turn
offH3 at KM.302 immediately after sign to Ban Laem
Sadet onto H3399, or from Chantaburi city via Tha
Mai District -see maps). Hat Khung Wiman is set amidst
pleasant scenery.
WAT
KHAO SUKIM AND KRA-THING FALLS - ST 6
(Take
H3322 north from H3 at either KM.306 or KM.318 - 25
kms round route. Krathing falls may be reached from
H3322 at KM.318 or 22 kms direct on H3249 from H3
KM.324 at Key Point 14). Wat Khao Sukim is an active
meditation centre (no access). The main attraction
is a vast 4-story building containing an extraordinary
array of artefacts. From the temple you can go to
Krathing Falls in Khao Khitchakut National Park, which
has 13 levels accessible from a steep 500 metre path.
NOEN
WONG FORTRESS - ST7
(H3146
approx. 4 kms from the city. Take H3147 at the T junction
by the fort to go to Thai Mai District and Laem Sadet)
The bastion was built on a bluff south-west of Chantaburi
city in 1843 as a defence against the Vietnamese.
Ramparts for 39 canons enclose 270 rai of land that
includes the Yotanimittara temple and a small museum
of underwater archaeological exploration.
KHAO
SOI DAO AND BACK COUNTRY ROUTES (H317)
H317
north from Key Point 15 takes you to hill country
close to the Kampuchean [Cambodian] border. For river
rafting in season take H3193 for 18 kms. from Pong
Nam Ron District (KM.36)
, but call first Tel: [039] 3601790).
Back
country routes connect H317 to Krathing Falls and
Wat Khao Sukim (West turns off H317 at KM.10 or KM.22),
to Bo Rai District via the Khiritan Dam (East turn
at KM.18- 4WD only during upgrading) and to Khiung
District via Makham on H3277. The latter passes an
access road to Trok Nong Falls at KM.9. A 3 km. walk
from the car park leads to the top level of the falls.
Corporate
Housing
